Martina Mori

Who needs to go to Florence when Florence comes to us?

In this day and age of social networking, we're able to make "friends" all over the world. As the destination city it is, New York offers the opportunity to meet "virtual" friends in the flesh.

Martina Mori and I have been cyber-friends for awhile. In planning her trip she gave me a heads up she was coming from her home in Florence, Italy to NYC and were able to grab coffee (and a few pictures).

Lovely, charming and working on her English (excellent progress- far better than my Italian), Martina is making the most of her visit by hitting all the usual spots. She did run into the unfortunate practice of many of our museums being closed on Monday's when she made her way up to the Met but found locked doors. 

A painter/artisan, Martina is one of the legions of people who make Italy and Italian craftsmanship among the best in the world. Unfortunate that the rest of the world has become so cookie-cutter and one-size fits-all; filled with the Gap's and Target's of the world. At least we have Italy!

Martina looks lovely here with her simple summer dress with vibrant colors and her Louis Vuitton bag. A nice ensemble for a hot New York summer day while making the rounds and a lot of walking.

In another note. Hope you didn't think my brief hiatus meant I was going away! Oh no. Working on several editorial photoshoot spreads and slowly making progress on the New York Fashion Online and New York Fashion House websites. I'm really excited about the two niches in the market that these will fill and I think you'll enjoy them. I can do a lot of things but code and HTML isn't one of them! I'll keep you updated on the progress.

Designer Spotlight: Loris Diran

What is the "American" vision in design?

That's a question Loris Diran wondered aloud with no definitive answer. For well over a century we've been heavily influenced by European design but 7th Avenue and the American press eschews designs that are too European.

Loris should know. A French-Armenian son of immigrants who moved to New York at an early age. He took his design skills he learned from instinct, his impressions of great designers of his childhood and a degree in Fine Arts from NYU and went abroad to work for major fashion houses such as Versace and Chanel. 

His perspective of both European culture and design are equally balanced with that of the U.S and his designs reflect that dichotomy. 

Continuing to wonder aloud, Loris said, "perhaps its because all American's come from immigrant families... this true melting pot, that there's no real answer".

Indeed, as he walked me through both his men's and woman's lines I was struck with how I couldn't put my finger on any one particular influence. Depending on the piece, I could see some French, Italian and Savile Row influences, but not purely enough to label any given one. A highly sophisticated and refined melting pot of design that flawlessly works.

Loris Diran designs reflect his perfectionism down to the last stitch of detail. It's obvious how impeccable the craftsmanship is. Both the woman's and men's lines have a wide variety of luxurious materials with wonderful silhouettes and drape. 

The men's line stretches from more avant garde and fashion forward to classic. Even the the more classic designs have small touches to set them apart from any other. Loris repeatedly says, "the beauty is in the detail". How true he proves this to be. The cuts, stitching and linings made every piece stand out to illustrate his uniqueness in design. I dare say I could now pick out a Loris Diran design from a mile away, purely on detail. 

Surprisingly, his sizable men's clientele is generally younger than his female clientele. For woman, he's very body conscious in his designs and I found the looks to be generally less avant garde but no less distinctive than the men's. Little wonder woman of all ages flock to his designs.

Loris Diran started his first woman's line in 2003 and his men's in 2005. Two years ago he opened his first of what he hopes will be a number of boutiques on 3 East First Street in the East Village.    

His visibility and notoriety continue to rise as time goes by. Well known customers such as Sarah Jessica Parker, Beyonce and Ricky Martin have increased his visibility as well as his designs featured in "The Devil Wears Prada". For many, Loris Diran's familiarity comes from frequent appearances in Bravo's "The Real Housewives of New York" this past season (many of whom are clients and good friends). Who knows? Maybe he'll have his own show before long.

Personally I've been fortunate to see Loris frequently at a variety of events. From the first time I met him I was struck with how impeccably dressed he was, down to the last detail. His perfectionism is not limited to his designs, he clearly strives for it in everything he does. A prince of a gentleman, pleasant, warm and approachable, he's always been an absolute pleasure to spend time with. Perhaps Loris Diran is that epitome of American vision. It couldn't come from a nicer, more deserving gentleman.

Loris Diran

3 East First Street

www.lorisdiran.com

Jasmine Pagán ~ Dating & Relationship Coach

We all know people who are constantly attracted to the wrong people. Most of us have had periods in our lives that whatever we're putting out there is not getting the results we want for dating or relationships. Friends. There always seems to be at least one friend that we feel confident enough in to vent our relationship (or lack of) frustrations to. More often than not, that friend is on our side. He's a jerk, she's crazy- yes, yes, yes.

There's an old saying, "people who say they're your friend tell you what you want to hear. True friends tell you what you need to hear". It's hard for most all of us to listen to someone who's struggling and in emotional turmoil and not be supportive and comforting. On the other hand, to truly be supportive you may need to tell them what they are doing wrong. What they need is someone objective.

This is where Jasmine Pagán steps in. About ten years ago, Jasmine discovered she had the Midas touch for friends with relationships problems and for those having a hard time finding the right type of person to date. A combination of tough love and nurturing comfort- a deft balancing act. With people beginning to approach her because of her outstanding reputation, five years ago she turned it into a business- Dating & Beyond. I recently asked her, "how do you find your clients?" to which she said "they find me, word gets around".

Jasmine starts with the "inner game". What are you putting out there to people? What are you really saying? You say you want a nice guy or girl but only get excited about bad-boys and girls; nice ones are a bore. Perhaps you're only attracted to rescue-missions who need saving. The list of potential problems preventing people from finding that ideal person is long and varied. She starts with "who is your ideal mate?". Inevitably, people have self-inflicted obstacles preventing them from being ready for the right relationship. In short, Jasmine is an MBA is self-awareness. She shows people where they're psychologically at as well as where they need to be to find the person of their dreams. I honestly can't do justice for everything Jasmine brings to the table and her extraordinary value. I can think of a number of friends who I really wish would talk to her.

CLICK ON IMAGES TO ENLARGE

Great sense of humor, highly intuitive and a bright spirit- we had tremendous fun in our photoshoot. If hunger pains didn't set in, we probably would have kept shooting into the dark. As soon as we met up, I said "Oh my god- I love that dress!". I asked where she got it- she made it. The night before. Two large scarves stitched together to create the most beautiful piece and silhouette. She has a second career if she wants it. Once again we found that style has a story! 

I have never had nor seen anyone create so much much awe and attention- from men and woman alike. Comments, people stopping to take pictures with their camera-phones and general gawking. At one point I looked up across the street and there were groups of people looking out office windows on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th floors. I told her she really needs to be modeling. "I like hamburgers too much". I think she and her hamburgers work well for the camera... and obviously in person. 

With so many great images, it would be a personal injustice to only publish one or two; here are a few more for everyone's enjoyment. Also, be sure to check out www.datingandbeyond.com for that friend who keeps repeating the same dating and relationship mistakes.

Skinny-Ties: Style or Fashion? A Case Study

Picture Source: Brooks Brothers


A recurring question I receive is the question of tie widths, these days mostly about skinny ties; are they a fad or stylish?

To answer, it comes down to proportions. Like most clothing items, the choice of proper tie width must take other things into consideration.

The fashion industry enjoys cycling proportions. They must feel it will increase sales if they can make people feel their wardrobe is obsolete because its not in style with fashion's latest push. Pant widths, skirt or dress hemlines, ties, jacket lengths and virtually any item that can be proportionally resized will be during the endless fashion cycles.

Classic style is timeless. There are ranges of acceptable proportions and styles that will remain classic in spite of fashion cycles: they'll always look good. It's up to us to hold true to our own style and tune out the whimsical nature of high-fashion and their advertising machines. If we understand which styles and proportions have withstood the test of time and buy accordingly, we have a wardrobe that transcends the latest "fashion".

Tie widths are a perfect example. First, the choice of width is not a decision made in a vacuum. To be proportionally correct, the width of the tie should match that of the jacket lapel. Wider lapels- wider ties, thin lapels- thin ties. Historically the acceptable range of widths for both is between 3 3/8" and 4 1/4". If one was to have all his jackets and ties fall within this range, the wardrobe would be immunized from the whims of fashion cycles. They won't look too wide nor will they look too narrow.

If one was to buy a new wardrobe or more realistically, begin slowly replenishing it- where within this range should they fall? Think proportion. A larger man with wide shoulders and chest would be better proportioned at the wider end. Blazers, sportscoats and suits being the larger ticket items; thus less easily replaceable, it's imperative to purchase the best proportioned jacket for their body type with the lapel falling within the classic range. The tie width follows accordingly.

Think of fashion as a pendulum moving from one extreme to another over time, back and forth. There are times when fast-fashion is pushing 2 1/2 inch ties (and jacket lapels) and others when they swing out to 5 inches. A fashion victim would feel the need to always be on the cutting edge and follow suit. True style understands the difference between classic style and the fashion industry's moodiness. Stay within the historical classic range and you're always in-style. It's hard-earned money that we put into clothing, let's make the best investment we can by insuring it will look just as good 10 or more years from now as it does today. Personal true style has no fashion victims.

Marco Radakovic

I admit it. I'm much tougher on men than I am on woman when it comes to good subjects for the New York Sartorialist. Why? Because I am one. I hold them to the same standards I hold myself in both dress as well as personal style and character. If I'm walking the streets of New York, I pass by literally thousands of men (and woman). As far as dress and presentation, woman have greater latitude in what they can look stylish in. For men, we're dealing with a more confined set of sartorial guidelines. Even those who are wearing nice clothes, tailored well and nice shoes- there is inevitably something missing most of the time. Panache! 

The Wall Street uniform doesn't do it for me unless they add personal touches to express their unique style (Bugs Bunny ties are not what I have in mind). Things the way they are, I inevitably find things that are "deal-killers" for me. For woman, the obvious sartorial deal-killer are their shoes. That's the beginning. Boring, mundane and lazy will kill a look. For men, that same rule applies. However, being a guy I know exactly how a jacket, slacks, ties, colors, patterns and fabrics should all work together and look as well as perfect tailoring. I'm pretty tough on my fellow man in this regard. It's slim pickins' out there, which is why I show more woman than men. That said...

I met Marco Radakovic a while back. Always a gentleman. Always dressed impeccably. The irony is we got together on a warm working Saturday afternoon and he had pulled the shirt out sans jacket. Knowing his style, he gets sartorial slack here. Being a straight male, I'm not wired for picking out really good looking guys and those who aren't. For Marco, he's a damn good looking gent. Even I can tell that.

Marco is Croatian. A football (soccer) star in his native country, he came to the U.S. in his early 20's to play professionally. About two years into it he suffered a career ending torn ACL injury. This is the beginning of explaining the soul of the man. In retelling the story to me, he said countless times how much he loved his surgeon. To this day he has tremendous warmth and sincere gratitude for the Dr. Why? He did his job and did it caringly and honestly. One would expect that those feelings would be reserved for someone who performed a miracle and got him back onto the field. No. Told from the beginning it was over and indeed it was. Short of not being able to play anymore, he's 100%. That deep gratitude for someone else in the now distant past tells me a lot about who Marco is. You won't hear that heartfelt talk from selfish, egocentric people. It's all about them and there's no room for anyone else. That's character. That's style. 

An entrepreneur, Marco has lived and is living the American dream... the opportunity of which is something else he's very grateful for. It would take pages to list his bio since his football career; let's say it's inspiring. Even in the face of people telling him he can't do something, he inevitably proves them wrong. Business? Got it. A few years ago he started playing with the idea of modeling and acting. Modeling? You're too old! Oh really? Guess again, his sideline modeling and acting career has come into full bloom. Versace runway, Four Seasons print ads, undercover special agent in the new Tom Cruise/Cameron Diaz film, "Knight and Day". Too old my foot!

Aside from the blossoming modeling and acting career, Marco is currently spending most of his time as the COO of the newly formed Wold Model Pros Modeling Agency as well as the Manager of Business Development for Couture Fashion Week. When I previously mentioned it was a "working" Saturday, they were casting for the event. 

The real deal. Character, optimistic, gracious, warm, open and honest. The kind of gentleman a gentleman wants to surround himself with. If only there were more.

Ashley Bickford ~ Miss Connecticut

I found this to be amazing.

While in Boston, I attended a wonderful fashion show presented by Eye Candy benefiting the Massachussetts Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Children (M.S.P.C.C).  Three previous New York Sartorialist featured individuals; Christina Pierce, Amy Patt and Elena Kollarova were walking in the show- how could I resist? It's for a good cause after-all.

I met up with Ashley Bickford after the show and found her to be charming, gracious, accommodating and sincere.

Yes, she's Miss Connecticut USA 2010. Attending college in Rhode Island, she won Miss Rhode Island 2007 and as a result was that state's representative for Miss America. Ashley's only the 7th "Triple Crown" winner in pageant history to have won her state's title and competed in Miss Teen USA, Miss USA and Miss America.

It would be a big mistake to stop there. O.K. Ready? Classically trained ballerina since childhood. Undergrad degree in Accounting. MBA. Professional print and runway model (including Town and Country Magazine and New York Fashion Week). We're still going... Audit Committee for the Hope Funds for Cancer Research Inc., previous volunteer for AmeriCorps, television host of "Northeast Adventures" and recently in the film "Ghosts of Girlfriends Past" with Matthew McConaughey as one of the "future" girlfriends.

Here's the kicker. Remember I mentioned that degree in Accounting and the MBA? For the last two years she's worked as an accountant for Price Waterhouse Coopers, one of the "Big 4" accounting firms. Accounting. My father was an accountant. I know accountants. Ashley is not in the same universe of the stereotypical accountant. All of this and she's 24. Her ability to expand time as if in slow motion to accomplish so much is striking. How would you like to have Ashley sitting in the cube next to you at work?  

When you think of pageants, it's easy to stereotype those participants as well. Who can forget some of the notoriously bad moments of the occasional ditsy answer to a question that's later played repeatedly in the media? Ashley, her intelligence, graciousness and energy should be an example of why it wouldn't be fair for any of us to make assumptions about pageant participants, models or for that matter- extremely attractive individuals.

The look: The form-fitting two-tone dress is very flattering. I didn't ask but it looks like it may be a Parker dress. Crush Boutique in Boston featured a flattering Parker Tuxedo dress in the Eye Candy show that had a similar two-tone pattern, so there's my best guess. The sandals. I have seen a number of beautiful woman wearing these heeled sandals with minimal straps including Alessandra Ambrosio and Adrianna Lima. Needless to say, I approve. I'm seeing too many flip-flops and flats these days for my taste. Those can ruin, or at least detract from an otherwise perfectly stylish summer ensemble. I hope others will follow the lead of these three beautiful ladies.      

Christina Pierce

Do you ever have one of those moments you see someone you know but you can't place them right away because they're in a different place or element than you're accustomed? Something like that happened with me recently. I was at an event last week and two friends, Joe Miceli-Magnone and his partner Ed Garou were showing me pictures from Providence StyleWeek. There was an event photo taken with a beautiful lady that I knew. I just couldn't put it together! Joe and Eddie live in New York. After a few moments, it dawned on me the third was Christina Pierce, friend from Boston. NYC fashion crowd, Boston fashion crowd. Together. It took a moment but I got it. In a related note, I heard nothing but rave reviews on the Providence show. I'll definitely make it a point to make it next year.

Christina Pierce lives fashion. Growing up the north shore from Boston, she attended Boston University where she graduated from the School of Management. Taking her love of fashion and combining it with her business degree, she worked for a major clothing retail conglomerate for three years. Working as a buyer, stylist, marketing and projecting and spotting fashion trends- she learned a tremendous amount about not only fashion but the business of fashion. It's a rare combination for one to understand both; usually it's all fashion or all business. 

Christina and her entrepreneurial spirit set out on her own after realizing she had learned One of the great things about having your own business is that no one will put you in a box preventing you from exercising all your skills, talents and passions. Having good business sense helps to ensure monetizing those talents to the greatest possible degree. For example, Christina works with larger companies, hotels, boutiques and designers to help with the fashion side, business side or both- all falling under the large umbrella of fashion consulting. Many designers are fantastic at designing but fall short on the business side. This is where she adds tremendous value by bridging that gap.

Christina's personality mirrors her background. She can be the fun bubbly blonde or she can be deadly serious and businesslike. It's a great balance. Very kind, gracious and thoughtful- a delight. Today is Christina's birthday (June 24th). I think she's been celebrating all week, which is good since she's working two shows tonight. Not surprisingly, with her beauty she's asked to walk runway at a number of shows as well as perform her duties as a stylist for the designers. I have the good fortune of seeing her on the catwalk tonight on her birthday. Good thing that celebration was a week long... no rest for the talented and hard-working Christina Pierce. In my small way, my Birthday present is having this published today. Happy Birthday!

The look: The above image shows her sporting a beautiful brown dress with a pleasant sheen from the Boston boutique Bobbles and Lace as well as Chanel heels. Love the look. Simple and elegant.

Below, Christina's sporting a very different look with J Crew shorts, H&M suspenders and Giuseppe Zannotti with serious bling! It's fun. Thought the American flag was a nice touch for the all-American girl look with a twist.

Additional Credits for both images:
Necklace: Tiffany & Co.
Bangles: Alex and Ani
Earrings: Chanel